Tanah Gajah Bali – A Tranquil Masterpiece in Ubud’s Rice Fields

Bali has long been on my travel bucket list, but the pandemic had initially put those plans on hold. When I finally came across some fantastic airfares to Singapore, I saw the perfect opportunity to craft a three-week journey through Southeast Asia—naturally with Bali as one of the highlights. Between options like Langkawi and Lombok, the decision was clear. I began my search for special properties to feature on Luxury Executive, and as a long-time admirer of GHM Hotels and their iconic Chedi properties, I knew I had to visit Tanah Gajah.

Once operated as The Chedi Club Ubud, this serene retreat was even part of The Leading Hotels of the World. Today, it is known as Tanah Gajah, a Resort by Hadiprana, reflecting the legacy of its founder Hendra Hadiprana—one of Indonesia’s most celebrated architects and art collectors. Originally designed as his private estate, this sanctuary of just 24 suites and villas still feels more like a residence than a conventional hotel. The name itself, “Tanah Gajah,” meaning Land of Elephants, draws inspiration from the nearby Goa Gajah Temple.

Our experience began with a warm welcome at Denpasar Airport, where a hotel staff member in traditional Balinese attire guided us past the crowded arrival hall to our private transfer. As we settled into the comfortable hotel car for the hour-long ride to Ubud, the pace of life immediately started to slow down. Though we arrived at night and couldn’t yet admire the natural beauty, my mind already began to unwind. Although we couldn’t yet take in the visual beauty, something about the air, the silence, and the calming Balinese music gently signaled that we had arrived somewhere special. Tanah Gajah operates on a different pace than any other hotel I’ve visited.

After a smooth check-in, our personal butler escorted us to The Tempayan restaurant, where we had pre-ordered a late dinner. The welcome by the restaurant team was warm and genuine—setting the tone for the days to come. Within hours, both my friend and I had intuitively matched the unhurried rhythm of the place. There is no rushing at Tanah Gajah—only stillness, serenity, and subtle sensory pleasures that allow you to fully disconnect and be present.

We stayed in a Two Bedroom Club Family Pool Villa, located beside the tranquil pond and the open-air amphitheater. While golf carts are available, the grounds are just the right size to explore on foot—no walk taking longer than five minutes. All suites and villas are decorated with curated artworks from Hadiprana’s private collection, staying true to the property’s original vision. I’ve always been drawn to Indonesian design, and here it felt natural, refined, and deeply comforting.

The villa featured a generous living area with a vast daybed, a dining table for four, a writing desk, a cozy sofa with a small television (rarely used in a place like this), and a beautiful wooden shelf concealing the minibar and coffee machine. Though the interiors might feel slightly traditional to some, they perfectly suit the timeless atmosphere of the resort. Most villa categories come with a private pool—either overlooking the rice fields or located in a secluded patio. Ours featured a private patio with a pool and free-standing bathtub, accessible directly from the bathroom. Our two bedrooms—a king and a twin—shared a spacious bathroom that included a walk-in shower and a bathtub with views of our private patio and pool. Everything was impeccably clean and thoughtfully designed, with an intuitive use of space. The beds were divine, the air conditioning quiet and efficient, and not once were we disturbed by noise.

One of the defining features of a stay at Tanah Gajah are the Club Benefits, a concept carried over from the property's Chedi Club heritage. These include daily afternoon tea and sunset cocktails, complimentary minibar (complete with three different spirits, beers, unlimited bottled water, and snacks), daily laundry service (for up to six pieces per day), complimentary yoga classes, one photo session during the stay, private car service to Ubud centre, and of course, personal butler service. We especially appreciated the minibar and laundry perks—imagine sipping a cold beer after a dip in your private pool, or cozying up with a coffee while watching tropical rain fall outside.

The property offers far more than just elegant accommodation. While we had initially planned to spend a lot of time exploring Ubud, we ended up staying on-site for nearly our entire four-day stay. Between our villa and the restaurant lies the beautiful main pool, heated to the perfect temperature and surrounded by tropical greenery. One of Tanah Gajah’s greatest luxuries is its flexibility: you can have anything, anytime, anywhere. Every experience at Tanah Gajah can be tailored to your desires: want your afternoon tea by the pool? No problem. But we highly recommend enjoying it at the Panen Padi Lounge, overlooking the rice fields and serenaded by birdsong.

Following our tea, we indulged in a traditional Balinese massage at the spa, which was incredibly soothing—especially as the afternoon rain drummed rhythmically on the roof. After the rain cleared, we headed to The Tempayan for sunset cocktails, served with a small selection of refined snacks. The drinks menu offers both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options, and the service throughout was genuine and unintrusive. Dinner at The Tempayan was another highlight. With a menu of both Balinese and Western dishes, everything we tried was fresh, thoughtfully plated, and delicious. We didn’t sample the wines this time, as we were on a bit of a wine detox, but the culinary experience was consistently impressive.

Breakfast at Tanah Gajah can be enjoyed anywhere—in the privacy of your villa, poolside as a floating meal, or at the elegant open-air pavilion of The Tempayan. We tried all three and found the restaurant experience to be our favorite. Everything is à la carte, giving you the freedom to truly ease into the day. Their Eggs Benedict were outstanding, and the juices—changing daily—were freshly pressed and full of flavor. Most notably, the staff never once asked for our room number. They always addressed us by name, remembered our preferences, and treated us with genuine warmth. A small note: at luxury hotels in Bali, the staff will always ask how they should address you—we found that using our first names made it easier for everyone.

By day two, it truly felt like our private holiday home. In fact, we only saw one other couple and a small family during our entire stay. Privacy is a major strength here, and yet the service never skips a beat. Everything happens without intrusion or visibility, whether it’s your laundry magically being returned, your minibar refilled, or your pool cleaned.

As a once-in-a-lifetime experience, we took part in the resort’s exclusive Hot Air Balloon flight—the only one offered in Bali. Rising at 6am had never felt easier. Floating silently over mist-covered rice paddies and gazing at distant volcanoes was absolutely magical. Upon landing, we were treated to a professional photo session, then led to a lovely breakfast and tea at The Tempayan. Later that day, we even asked the hotel to arrange a tailor to adjust some trousers we had purchased in Copenhagen. Not only was the job done within 24 hours, but they even drove us to the shop to avoid any misunderstanding.

Tanah Gajah is one of those rare properties that stays with you. After touring five luxury resorts across southern Bali, I honestly didn’t expect this one to be the most memorable. And yet, no other place allowed me to disconnect so profoundly and sink into such peace. Despite the low room count and quiet ambiance, I never once felt bored—only recharged, balanced, and present. For that alone, I can wholeheartedly recommend Tanah Gajah, a Resort by Hadiprana. The value for money is exceptional, the staff-to-guest ratio is superb, and the level of management is on par with the very best I’ve encountered in Asia.

This is a place where time slows down and your soul catches up. A grand hotel in the truest sense—steeped in tradition, elevated by impeccable service, and made unforgettable by the gentle power of serenity.