Restaurant-Check: Sonnenstüble, Kleinwalsertal
Understated Excellence: A Fine Dining Experience at Hotel Birkenhöhe
There’s a phrase that frequently surfaces in other reviews of the fine dining restaurant Sonnenstüble, tucked away in Hotel Birkenhöhe in Hirschegg: understatement par excellence. And after experiencing the five-course tasting menu for myself, I can wholeheartedly echo that sentiment.
A Taste of Lyon in the Alps
From the very first amuse-bouche, I was transported straight to Lyon. A symphonic bite of foie gras set the tone — rich, delicate, and perfectly balanced. It’s a dish that in many Michelin-starred establishments might come at a steep surcharge, but here, it was simply the opening act of a five-course menu priced at a remarkably fair €75. A full evening of culinary indulgence awaited, and what followed did not disappoint.
Bread as Ceremony
Shortly after, a beautifully warm nut bread loaf was placed on the table, accompanied by whipped salted butter. The butter was light as air — a small detail, perhaps, but one that speaks volumes about the kitchen's attention to craftsmanship. The bread, meant to be shared, was presented as its own small ceremony, reinforcing the idea that here, everything is intentional.
French Roots, Modern Twists
The first course: a classic salmon terrine, revitalized with a fresh, contemporary twist courtesy of Junior Chef Felix Bantel, who joined the kitchen in January 2022. This was my first glimpse into Sonnenstüble’s signature style — a reverent nod to old-school French gastronomy, reinterpreted with international flair.
That same theme continued into the second course: a nasturtium espuma, served not in the foraged, Nordic style seen in trendsetting restaurants across Europe, but in the form of a classical frothy soup à la Bocuse. It was both comforting and quietly bold — a reimagining of a nostalgic flavor with modern elegance.
A Fish Course Tailored to Perfection
For the fish course, I was presented with what could only be described as my ideal dish: Dover sole à la Viennoise, paired with perfectly blanched spinach and champignons à la crème. Again, classic French foundations met with subtle modern updates — a culinary conversation between tradition and innovation. The dish was exquisitely seasoned, flawlessly timed, and full of heart.
Wine Pairings & Impeccable Service
Service throughout the evening was on par with the cuisine — professional, unobtrusive, and warmly attentive. The wine pairing deserves special mention: a natural wine from South Africa, unexpectedly bold and nuanced, matched the complexity of the dishes with effortless precision. True to the mantra “Precision beats power and timing beats speed,” the pacing between courses was spot-on, allowing each dish to be savored and reflected upon.
A Bold Main Course: Surf & Turf Reimagined
For the main, a beautifully executed surf & turf featured a tender beef pot roast alongside a juicy gamba, flanked by elegant vegetable emulsions and a stuffed potato inspired by Christian Jürgens. This was fine dining with a wink — refined, yes, but with enough character and creativity to keep it compelling.
A Sweet Ending — With a Classic Touch
The final course took a step back from drama and spectacle and instead offered quiet comfort: a Buchtel (yeast dumpling) served with a spirited rumtopf and a flawlessly smooth vanilla sauce. While it lacked the visual theatrics of a Nouvelle Cuisine dessert, it was a masterclass in balance and restraint. To finish, a selection of house-made chocolates and pralines accompanied the coffee — a fittingly elegant coda to an already harmonious evening.
Final Thoughts
My dinner at Sonnenstüble was nothing short of a hidden gem. From start to finish, the experience was thoughtful, refined, and rich in culinary narrative. The blend of classical French technique and modern international influences was handled with skill and confidence, never feeling forced or gimmicky.
For a five-course tasting menu at €75, the value is nearly unheard of at this level — a true insider tip for gourmet travelers in the Kleinwalsertal region. And next time, I’ll be sure to dive into the impressively underpriced wine rarities on the list. Sonnenstüble isn’t just a place to dine — it’s a place to linger, to reflect, and to fall in love with food all over again.
